The Magic of Uganda

By Nicole Harrison

Traveling in Africa is magical. I first fell in love with the people, landscapes, wildlife, and rhythm of life on the continent as a research student living in Kenya. I returned to life as we know it here in the U.S. with my heart and my dreams firmly planted in African soil. I knew I had to go back. I was constantly talking and thinking about life in Africa--the simplicity, the hardships, the wildlife and issues surrounding their survival, the incredible spirit and hope of the people. My family, never having set foot in Africa, did not understand what was so special about this place and why I felt so connected to it. They could not imagine the rush of wind in your face as you drive across open plains surrounded by thousands of wildebeest, the smell of a lion pride nearby, or the sounds of the African night. I told my mother that she needed to see Africa for herself and then she would know what I was trying to tell her.

Last year, I had an opportunity to travel on a business trip to East Africa as Africa Program Director for a Seattle based adventure travel company. My journey would allow me five weeks to roam from the plains of Tanzania to world famous parks in Kenya. The grand finale of my trip would be a ten day overland exploration of Uganda. Being an avid reader of the works of wildlife biologists, I immediately thought of Dian Fossey and her precious Mountain gorillas. Uganda was one of the last places on earth where the gorillas and other primates could be found in their natural environments. This country was also the biggest unknown on my itinerary—I did not fully know what to expect from Uganda.

I invited some family members and friends to join me, hoping that they would accept my offer and finally understand the wonders of Africa. My husband accompanied me to the top of Kilimanjaro, and my brother and his fiancée joined me on a safari in Tanzania and Kenya. You can imagine my pleasant surprise when my mother, Rose, Aunt Rosemarie, and cousin Kristine, decided to join me in Uganda!

When I first arrived in Uganda, I was met at the airport in Entebbe and immediately took a liking to the tall man with an infectious smile who would be our guide for the next ten days. He introduced himself as Medi and drove me the short distance to the Lake Victoria Hotel, perched on the shores of the enormous lake. After a short rest, Medi and I headed back to the airport to pick up my family and another traveler, Alice Burgess. We spotted them before they saw us. I could tell from their faces that they were a little scared amidst the hustle and bustle of a busy African airport. "Where is she?" their eyes seemed to say as they scanned the many faces of all shades and sizes. Once they saw Medi and me, all signs of panic went away and excitement overcame them. They had successfully traveled eighteen hours to arrive in Africa! We chatted about their short stay in London as we made our way to the hotel. Everyone then settled in for their first night in Africa. I could not believe they were really here. They would finally understand from personal experience what I love about Africa.

After a morning briefing, we piled into our spacious 4X4 land cruiser and off we went! Prior to my arrival in Uganda, while in Tanzania and Kenya, I had become accustomed to the scenes of Africa found along every road. Women draped in vibrant local fabrics effortlessly balanced baskets on their heads, men rode bicycles weighed down with bananas, and farmers were selling their crops. My family was seeing all of these things for the first time and each scene of daily life brought exclamations and questions from them. Medi and I found ourselves painting a picture of every day life in Africa for "Rose x2" (as Medi liked to call them), Alice, and Kristine. Most of our drives were spent watching the stunning countryside of Uganda roll by. We passed thick forests, red dirt roads, terraced farms, gentle hills, and gorgeous lakes. We stopped at roadside stands to stretch our legs, buy some fruit, and talk to the villagers. A man on a homemade scooter whizzed past our vehicle on a winding mountain road. The local color and genuine hospitality were a pleasure to experience. Our cross-cultural interactions were enhanced by MediÅfs ability to speak five local dialects as well as Swahili and English. His knowledge of national parks in Uganda is complemented by his familiarity with local traditions and cultural nuances.

We continued to learn about the culture at our boutique style lodges. We had excellent service everywhere from local people employed at each place. They took care of us as if we were houseguests or longtime friends—not just travelers passing through. My mother had managed to live 55 years and never sleep in a tent, so our deluxe camp in Bwindi was a treat for her! She marveled at the creature comforts like hot water showers, and private toilets in a tent. Anything we needed was available to us in the remote parts of this amazing country.

Over the course of our adventure, we walked through rain forests and wetlands in search of wild primates, stood awestruck as a chimpanzee family feasted on the fruits of a fig tree, spotted herds of buffalo across the plains, witnessed crocodiles stealthily sliding along the side of our boat, and listened to hippos chewing the grass outside our rooms during the night. My mother still talks of the enormous elephant herd we encountered around sunset at Queen Elizabeth National Park. There were nearly 80 individuals, playing, feeding, and enjoying the cool night. Large elephant herds are mostly females with their young. Mothers, daughters, aunts, and cousins silently filed across the field and faded like gray ghosts. I turned to the faces of my own mother, aunt, and cousin, and I believe in that moment—when the last elephant slipped into the night, the women in my family finally understood why I love Africa. The family bonds we shared were evident in elephants, chimpanzees, and gorillas. The beautiful elephant revelation overwhelmed us all and suddenly tears were rolling down our cheeks.

The crowning glory of our entire time in Uganda was trekking to find the highly endangered Mountain gorillas in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. We covered incredible terrain--steep inclines, extremely dense vegetation, and the humid sticky climate of a tropical rain forest. The vegetation reached out to you with thorns, vines, roots, and branches to block your path to the gorillas. My mother (who runs marathons) was a trooper—even though she did not hike on a regular basis. Some members of our group had difficulty with the steep terrain—they walked slower and depended on the porters and walking sticks to assist them. All five of us were very determined to make it to where the gorillas had been located by our trackers. What a challenge! But, oh so completely worth it when you are face to face with one of humanity's closest living relatives. I was humbled by their gentleness and their complete concern for each other. We watched as young gorilla played without care, jumping off the dominant Silverback as if they were in a professional wrestling match. Mothers cradled their babies and the young males bravely sat sentry against any danger. I was relieved to note that we were not considered a danger to them. We were welcomed into their world with complete trust and I was so honored to be a part of that. I cannot fully describe the peace that we all felt watching these beings in this incredible forest. We were all so proud of ourselves for completing the eight-hour hike in good spirits and with tired legs hiked out to our camp, where the smiling staff, hot showers, and dry towels awaited.

The second day of trekking was harder--no cut trail anywhere. My aunt and Alice were tired from the first trek and were very satisfied with seeing the gorillas once. They gave up their permits to locals in our camp who have never been up the mountain. So, Mom, Kris, and I headed into the forest again for another day of adventure. The gorilla group we were tracking was on the move and they were tough to find in that tangle of vines, branches, thorns, and other fun stuff! We all were exhausted from fighting the forest! Again, the exhaustion slips away as one of the most unique wildlife scenes in the world unfolds before you. Young gorillas climb trees, one just above your head; the Silverback guards the group as they move to a relaxing spot to feed; and a baby is so close to me that her smell floods my senses. I could have reached out my hand to touch her. Absolutely awesome. I loved every precious minute with these beings and soaked it all in.

I cried when I left Uganda. After five weeks on the continent, I had become so attached to the rhythm of Africa, to the simple ways and happiness of the people. There is a certain satisfaction of surviving without lights and running water and the modern conveniences that we all take for granted at home. I yearn for the peace that is evident in so many ways in Africa. Not everything is handed to you there--it is earned and it is so much more valued. I am still processing a lot of what I saw, felt, heard, and tasted. Africa is truly an experience that you must experience for yourself, feel with your own heart, and embrace with your very being, as I did.

Nicole works with wildlife at the Woodland Park Zoo and is the African Program Director for a Seattle based adventure company.