My Personal Account Of The Sea Canoe
Kayaking Excursion In Phuket Thailand Which Explores The Caves
By Tony Champion
As the anchor slid into the Andaman Sea, a hush of anticipation descended
on the boat. Here we were, a dozen or so tourists, dwarfed by the limestone
karsts that punctuate the seascape between Phuket Island and Krabi on
Thailands southern shore, looking forward to our adventure.
I for one did not really know what to expect as the crew unloaded the
bright yellow kayaks. Will I have to paddle? Will I be able to find my
way in the dark caves?
My questions were soon answered as the head guide gave the briefing.
Once we had put on our life vests, he explained, we would pair-up and
join one of the guides waiting in their kayaks which by now had spread
out around the boat like ducklings around their mother.
Stepping gingerly onto my allotted kayak, I grinned nervously at my guide
who beamed a typical Thai smile. If you know Thailand you will know what
I mean: the type of smile that can be seen from space. Our guide, Nit
was his name, paddled us effortlessly away from the mother ship and closer
to the, by now, imposing cliffs of the island, the first of many we would
be getting to know intimately that day.
This excursion was pioneered by an American John Caveman
Gray. It was in 1989 that John discovered the hongs of Phang
Nga Bay in Thailand: the Thai word hong means room and it
refers to the open area inside these limestone islands. If you can imagine
that some of these islands in Phang Nga Bay are shaped like donuts, the
type with a hole in the middle. John discovered that at low tide it is
possible to follow a network of caves through the limestone rock into
an inner world.
In that same year John set-up his company, Sea Canoe; and so successful
was his concept that he spawned many copycat companies including more
than a few Sea Canoes. To avoid confusion John has re-named his company
John Grays Sea Canoe.
Nit explained in his very good English that at certain points
on our journey through the caves we would have to lie flat on our backs
because of the low ceilings. You can imagine at this point I was beginning
to question the sanity of my decision to drag myself out of bed early
that morning simply to put myself in mortal danger. At the same time I
was trying to work out which way the tide was running. If these caves
were only accessible at low tide, how much time did we have to get in
and out before the tide turned?
And when you get inside, Nits voice interrupted my
thoughts, to protect the environment, there is no talking and no
smoking. Excellent, now I remembered why I was risking life and
limb. It was this idea of visiting a pristine environment that had first
attracted me.
The caves were becoming narrower now as Nit manoeuvred our kayak through
the dark. Lie down he whispered as his torchlight captured
a low hanging rock. The ceiling of the cave was getting closer to my face
and I had to turn my head to prevent my nose scraping along the sharp
limestone. This was actually getting exciting although I wasnt sure
how long I could cope with this claustrophobic feeling that was starting
to creep over me.
But within minutes the cave started to open up again and a hint of daylight
caressed the cavern wall.
I squinted as we emerged into the bright sunlight, into a land that time
forgot. Trees were clinging to the steep scrub-covered walls of the hong
and reaching out for the brilliant blue sky above. A sea eagle swooped
down low to see who these interlopers were. And all was peace and tranquillity.
The family of kayaks paddled slowly through the hong, the occupants in
awe of this magical, secret place in southern Thailand. The only sounds
were the lapping of water, the call of the cicadas, the clicking of cameras
and whispers of excitement.
All too soon it was time to head back. John Grays professional
guides were well aware of the movement of the tides and making sure we
were through those caves in good time.
The excitement only increased with each hong we explored
and the memories of that day will never leave me.
This Sea Canoe day excursion is available from Phuket, Thailand: it is
a relatively expensive one but for me it was worth it.
Tony Champion is a retired travel professional and owner of a web site
dedicated to high-end accommodation on Phuket Island, Thailand. For more
information visit: http://www.ExclusivePhuket.com
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