The Magic of Ecuador
by Stewart B. Nelson, Ph.D.

"Do you want to look for buried treasure?"

We had spent the night at a hacienda on the outskirts of the town of Ba–os and during breakfast, Miguel, the manager, discussed with us the things to do: hiking in the cloud forest, horseback riding, or trout fishing. He then surprised us with the tale of Inca treasure that many believe was hidden in the surrounding mountains. We discovered on our recent trip that Ecuador was full of surprises.

As we learned, Ecuador is South America's great diversity wrapped up in an easily accessible geographical package. Because Ecuador is one of the smallest countries in South America, we found that in only two weeks we could experience an Amazon rainforest adventure, a highlands driving tour through the spectacular Avenue of the Volcanoes, a white sand beach resort, and to top it all off, a cruise through the enchanting Galapagos Islands.

From Miami, we flew for four hours to Quito, the capital. Quito is at an altitude of 9,200 feet, and except for a mild headache, which an aspirin quickly cured, we had no difficulty adjusting. The airport, small by our standards, is almost within the city itself. A new international facility will be completed in 2005 and will be about a 30-minute drive away. From the present Mariscal Sucre Airport, we were at the hotel in ten minutes! It was an amazingly clear and star-filled night and from our room we could see the looming sight of the snow-capped volcano, Cotopaxi.

One of the many benefits in Ecuador is that the government recently converted its monetary system to the U.S. dollar, both paper and coin. For a visitor, everything is amazingly inexpensive, be it accommodations, food, clothing, or transportation.

Early the next morning our land adventure began with Felix behind the wheel and our guide, Fernando, full of history, trivia, and good cheer. Quito was the northern capital of the Inca Empire and after the Spanish conquest in 1534, the city became the colonial center. Much of the colonial buildings remain, especially the churches, and Quito is designated as a World Heritage Site by the United Nations. We spent the morning walking about the old town, and three of the buildings that completely captivated us were La Compa_ia de Jesus Church, San Francisco Church and Convent, and Museo de la Ciudad, the cultural museum of the city which was formerly a Spanish hospital. Independence Square is surrounded by the Presidential Palace, the Archbishop's Palace, the Great Cathedral and the city's first grand hotel, now an office building. They present a myriad of architectural styles but what was most impressive were the commercial shops on the ground level of the Presidential Palace! With Ecuador's many different ethnic groups, we became absorbed with people-watching. Almost every street offered a different scene and Fernando, our guide, explained the distinctive styles of hats, clothing, and ornaments that distinguish the various Indian tribes. Lunch was at a local restaurant and we were surprised at how much we enjoyed ceviche, a soup made with various types of seafood and served with a bowl of popcorn.

The Equator, from which Ecuador derives its name, passes through the country, and next on our agenda was a compulsory stop at the Equator monument. Standing with a foot on each side of a painted yellow line and straddling both the northern and southern hemispheres, was quite a photo opportunity. The Equator monument houses a very impressive museum with colorful displays of the seventeen different ethnic groups in Ecuador. It is probably the only museum we have ever visited that did not have a gift shop. The monument is part of an entire complex, which features restaurants, hotels, art galleries, and shops.

That night we re-packed, taking only those things we would need for our five-days/four-nights in the Amazon. We had carefully followed the list of recommended items provided in advance. Our remaining luggage would be left in the care of the hotel until our return. Maria Elena met with us over breakfast and reviewed our preparations. With a buenas dias from Felix, it was off to the airport and the Amazon.

The Andes, the mountainous spine of South America, divides Ecuador into three distinct regions: the Amazon rainforest, commonly referred to as the Oriente, meaning "east"; the Andean highlands or Sierra; and the Coastal area. They are different from one another socially, culturally, and environmentally. Ecuador has a fourth region-- the Galapagos Islands are 600 miles off the mainland coast, and one of the most unique places in the world.

There are several wilderness lodges in Ecuador's Amazon region. We opted for a lodge on one of the major tributaries of the Amazon River, close to the Peruvian border. We spent time with the Achuar people, a tribe that is committed to preserving their self-sufficient way of life. Visiting the home of an Achuar family we were offered manioc beer, called "nijiamanch," in a common bowl. We later purchased this bowl. The time we spent in the Amazon went all too quickly, but the bowl and photographs of the area we took, will be the reminders of an incredible adventure. Returning to Quito we were once again welcomed at the airport by Maria Elena and our ever-smiling driver, Felix. We must confess that a particular joy in the hotel was the luxury of a long, hot shower! Now it was time to get ready for our five-day driving tour of the Andean highlands, the Sierras. Our final destination was to be the historic city of Cuenca, another World Heritage Site. Together again with Fernando and Felix, we first headed north to see Otavalo, famous for its Indian Market. There were many different and unique sights, sounds, and smells associated with all the strange kinds of fruits and vegetables. It was amazing to think that only three days earlier we were sipping manioc beer out of a bowl and watching an Achuar tribesman trying to kill a monkey with a blow- gun, so that his family would have dinner.

From Otavalo we turned north for our journey through the Avenue of the Volcanoes. Along the way we passed many greenhouses, which, Fernando explained, were for the growing of flowers. Another surprise--Ecuador is one of the world's leading exporters of cut flowers, including long-stem roses, carnations, lilies, sunflowers, and orchids. We drove through the Andes, mountains on both sides, some snow-capped and some active volcanoes. We left the Pan American highway on many occasions to see waterfalls, deep gorges, local markets, and small villages. The rich volcanic soil has made this region a checkerboard of agricultural fields. These fields rise up from the valleys along the mountainsides at amazingly steep angles. No machinery can manage these slopes. The work is all done manually, with oxen being used to pull the plows. We drove around a bend and suddenly, one huge, belching mountain loomed up--the active, snow-capped volcano, Tungarahua. We gazed in awe at this cone-shaped mountain spewing steam and ash. Volcanologists have warned that Tungarahua is due for a major eruption. This particular night we were staying at a hacienda close to our next destination, the town of Ba_os. The manager, Miguel, told us about the buried Inca treasure. He told us when the Spanish conquistador, Pizarro, captured the last Inca emperor, Atahaulpa, he demanded roomfuls of gold and other riches as ransom. One of the Inca generals was bringing some of the treasure, but after learning that Pizarro had killed the emperor, he chose to bury it instead. Many believe he did so somewhere in the mountains around Ba_os.

The next morning, after a grand breakfast prepared by Miguel, we drove through the cloud forest to Ba_os. If and when Tungarahua erupts, Ba_os will be threatened. Recent tectonic upheavals have already destroyed some of the mineral baths for which the town is famous. It was strange to see these collapsed baths and to drive through a town that could easily be destroyed by an already restless volcano. But, there were the people going about their daily routine, seemingly unmindful of the possible catastrophe. The town of Riobamba, with its balconies of iron, bore a resemblance to New Orleans. This was where our guide, Fernando, had been born and schooled and we got to trip down memory lane with him. An extremely attractive town, Riobamba has a flower market, a main square and church, and a local delicacy. Fernando had been extolling the culinary virtues of Riobamba's roast pig. After another chorus of, "No where else in the world will you taste anything as good as our roast pig," it was time to head to the eateries. Since leaving Quito we had seen none of the ubiquitous fast food places, but the roast pig stalls came close. The stalls were in the main market with stall after stall forming a large square, and in the center, a plethora of metal tables. Surprisingly, there were only women working the stalls. They were all similarly dressed in red-and polka-dot outfits with white caps, selling their wares, and all ready with a sample if you hesitated for a moment before their stall. Each stall was laden with a huge roast pig, mounds of meat, and steaming pots of the favorite side dish, hominy. After a helping of pig and hominy, I had to agree with Fernando it was "fantastic."

Riobamba was the location of the first Spanish settlement in Ecuador and just outside the town is a Spanish church, over 400 years old. For a while, the road ran alongside the narrow-gauge railway that has been transformed into a popular tourist excursion. According to people who have taken the train ride, the most thrilling part of the ride is going through the mountain pass called "Devil's Nose." Here the slow-moving train negotiates a series of switchbacks and reversals as it wends its way down the mountains. Part of the thrill is sitting on the rooftop of the railcars. We stopped and watched the train go by receiving lots of waves and yells from the multitude of people on the top of the cars. This railway is now being upgraded and the cars refurbished.

Another planned stop was at Ingapirca. With its Inca ruins, Ingapirca is Ecuador's most important archeological site. Excavation work is still ongoing, but the part that was most fascinating was being able to walk on the remains of the stone-paved roadway that once linked together the Inca's great empire.

The Avenue of the Volcanoes ends at historic Cuenca. It is said that in Cuenca there are so many churches that a person can go to a different one every Sunday throughout the year. Cuenca is famous for its ceramics, and we saw many beautiful pieces. We made a visit to a Panama hat factory, and the name does not reflect the fact that the hats are made in Ecuador. The name was acquired when the hats were purchased for the men building the Panama Canal. Weaving the hats is primarily a cottage industry, but the finishing, which includes washing, drying, forming, and accessorizing, is done at the factory. Ecuador distributes its hats worldwide and a top quality Panama hat can cost upwards of $400. Yes, there are several different styles for women. While Felix returned with the car, we flew back to Quito, which was a 45- minute flight. The next morning Felix and Fernando were waiting at the hotel with the car and it was off to the airport for a 30-minute flight to Guayaquil. With two -million people, this is Ecuador's biggest city and the country's busiest port. Ecuador is one of the world's biggest exporters of pond-raised shrimp. Its offshore fisheries are also a very viable industry, if an El Nino doesn't strike.

Wherever we went in Ecuador we found the people to be warm, gentle, and peaceful. It is a rich country, still in a developing state. As we discovered, Ecuador offers amazing diversity, enough to interest any traveler, and lends itself to a wonderful family adventure vacation.

Dr. Stewart B. Nelson, who travels throughout the world, is an oceanographer, historian, author, and popular lecturer.